Ok women! Finally a site for us...no more dreaming...How do I Get Started? So you want to build your own furniture? And get exactly what you want? Potentially saving tons of retail?
Happy Wednesday!! I am so excited to share my latest furniture build with you guys! I feel like I put my building "big girl pants" on for this one. I typically come up with the
Our $200 Fireplace Makeover (Marble Tile & A New Mantel) | Young House Love
Learn how I built an outdoor modular seating with storage for ma patio. You can do the same with the free plans included.
Schnell und einfach Holzpalettenprojekte zu bauen #bauen #einfach #holzpalettenprojekte #schnell #gartenideen
Cat shelves and stairs added to a bathroom ceiling making use of skylight.
"A DIY Console Table perfect for your entryway" I think I've said this several times, but consoles are one of my favorite things to build. It's probably one of the things I've built the most, so it's only right that I bring you a new design today. "This post is sponsored by the Home Depot" This design was one I really
Love Fixer Upper? Bring the style into your own home with these amazing DIY farmhouse furniture building plans. 101 ways to get Joanna Gaines look for less!
Happy Wednesday guys! We are back with another plan today. I am THRILLED with how this design turned out. I wanted to design a table using only 2×4 studs and that’s exactly what I did. This one uses 17 of them, which made my cost of lumber just under $60. YEP… $60. Before we get…
If you're looking to start building, getting furniture plans is a good idea. Here's a list of 15 awesome sites for free furniture building plans.
This sideboard can be used is so many different ways. Love this style! DIY tutorial and plans to build your own farmhouse style planked X console for a TV or dining room sideboard. Building plans at Remodelaholic.com #remodelaholic #buildingplans #sideboard #farmhousestyle #farmhouse
Yay! After days of waiting, I finally have my new concrete countertop installed in my bathroom. Last week I alluded to "something curing" in my garage. Well, this was it. Last week, I shared the latest chapter in my bathroom make-over, darkening the vanity cabinets without stripping them. Actually, I've been dying to replace the counter and sinks in my master bath for a long while and once I decided to DIY the countertop, I figured it was a great time to update the cabinets too. I didn't hate the way the old countertop and sinks looked, but they were a "free section" score and were in pretty rough shape. You can't see in photos, but they were scratched to pieces and had some pretty nasty spots that would NEVER come clean no matter how I scrubbed. One night while getting ready for bed, I suddenly decided I needed to try my hand at concrete counters. I'm not going to pretend I am the first person to do this. Before I started, I found a super helpful tutorial by Imperfectly Polished. I highly recommend reading through their process if you are considering DIYing concrete countertops. Although there are a handful of tutorials out there, there were a few steps that I found difficult to find explained. Also, I learned a few tips along the way, so I thought I'd share those elements The biggest problem I hadn't see addressed was what to do about a sink opening. None of the tutorials I read really discussed how to accommodate a drop-in or under-mount sink. I found a few education videos meant for professionals and learned what I needed was a knock-out. Alena Shishkova No, not the Russian model kind of knock-out. The kind that's made of foam and used to create sink openings. Luckily, the are really simple to make. Find a piece of rigid foam insulation a bit larger than your sink. You can find the foam in the stucco section of Home Depot and Lowe's and is really cheap. Like $5 for a half sheet. If you are using a new sink, you will need the paper template that comes with your sink. If you are using an old, salvaged sink that has been sitting in your garage for 3 years, then you need to trace around the outside. For reference, I suggest tracing the holes for the faucet as well. Next, you need to shrink the shape so the sink has something to sit on and doesn't fall through the hole. On my sink, I had about a 1" lip of clearance, so I simply free-handed a shape 1" smaller than my sink tracing. Cutting the foam is a snap. I found a jigsaw set to its slowest setting cut through the foam like butter. If you have any funky edges, you will want to sand those down to get a smooth edge. If you are doing a drop-in sink, this step is extra important. To cover the raw edges of foam, I ran a strip of packing tape around the entire perimeter. If you are doing a drop-in sink, I may even suggest a couple layers of tape, to ensure a nice, slick edge. For a under mount sink knock-out, you may even want to use a release agent. Now, its time to attach the knock-outs to the countertop form. The form is pretty simple, a frame of melamine screwed together and sealed with silicone caulk. Measure your vanity, do a little geometry, and figure out where the openings need to be. Once they are marked, glue on the knock-outs with more silicone caulk, and secure with a couple screws. Then, run a bead of caulk around the outside of the knock-out, and smooth it, creating a water tight seal to the form. One extremely clever tip I picked up along the way involved a bit more packing tape. Can you imagine how hard it would be to remove screws smothered in dried concrete? So, before I poured the concrete, I went around and covered any screw heads with a little piece of tape. Here's the photo to prove that I actually mixed and shoveled the concrete myself. Admittedly, I had a lot of help from the husband. Not that mixing and pouring concrete is particularly difficult, but it requires some serious muscles and is time sensitive. You will need a helper. Notice the hardware cloth and rebar? I've read several arguments for and against how necessary steel reinforcement is in countertops. The rebar and hardware cloth provide tons of structural strength and as my husband always says "When in doubt, build it stout". Just like getting your hair colored, the processing time is the hardest part. After tamping, screeding, and vibrating the form, I covered it in plastic (to lock in moisture and slow the drying time. slower curing = stronger concrete) and let it cure for a week. In fact, we were up camping when the concrete hit the 7 day mark, so it actually sat for 10 days. To remove the forms, pull off the protective tape and remove the screws. Then, carefully flip the form over and pry apart the melamine. Make sure to not use any tools on the "green" concrete. Now form-less, the knocking-out part comes in. Use a utility knife and cut the foam into a few large pieces. Make sure to cut all the way through. The, you can easily pry the foam out of the opening. Here's how the countertop looked fresh out of the form. I put it up on sawhorses so I could finish it. This thing is heavy as crap! Moving it is definitely a two-man, or a one-olympic-shot-putter job. I chose to keep the natural, grey color. I wanted my countertops to look, well, like concrete. I'm digging the industrial look right now plus, sealed concrete is dark gray, which I'm also digging right now. Concrete is so versatile! You can make it look like almost anything and in any style. If you are so inclined, I've seen some beautiful faux stone finishes on concrete. To seal them, I used the only concrete sealer I could find at Home Depot in "natural finish". If you google acrylic concrete sealers, you will find lots of good quality options. I just didn't want to wait. It seemed to work really well. I rolled on 2 coats, and then rubbed and buffed 2 coats of wax. If you plan to prepare food on your counters (I don't know about you, but I don't often find myself making a sandwich in the bathroom) then you need to be sure to use a food-safe wax. The next day, I had the husband help me schlep the counter into place. We secured it to the cabinets with a thick bead of silicone caulk. Then, we dropped in the sinks, and installed the new faucets. Speaking of faucets, aren't the gorgeous?! They are the Danze Eastham Widespread Bathroom Faucet in chrome and they were generously provided by National Builder supply. I was blown away by their quality! Made me think of that part in Jurassic park, "Are they heavy? Yeah. Then they are expensive." I've worked with Supply.com before and there is a reason, they're the best. If you are looking for a new faucet, door hardware, lighting, or pretty much anything home related, you've gotta check them out. Best selection I've ever seen! I'm really happy with the industrial look of the concrete. Its exactly what I was hoping for. I love the contrast between the sleek cabinets and shiny hardware next to the rustic concrete. There are several little imperfections, and it's great. In this shot, you get a little glimpse at my new crush, A.K.A. cabinet hardware from D.Lawless Hardware. I was hoping for variations in color, and my countertop happily delievered. If you want a solid colored surface, you can add concrete pigment to change and even out the color. Things I learned from this process: Even if it says "great for counter tops" on the bag, I would recommend using a specific countertop concrete mix, especially if you are looking for a "flawless" finish. Sure, the stuff I used it strong enough for countertops, but I was shocked how large the aggregate was! It made it pretty hard to get a pretty surface. DON'T USE CLEAR CAULK! It was almost impossible to see it once applied and it was really hard to make sure my form was sealed all the way around. Just buy a tube of the black stuff and make your life easier. Its worth the extra money to buy a concrete additive/ water reducer. I found it in the concrete section at Home Depot, next to the trowels. Not only does the additive reduce the amount of water needed (making the concrete stronger) it really helps to make the concrete more workable. Yes, you can use regular ole sandpaper to smooth the surface. You don't have to use diamond grit and a special sander. You'll just go through sandpaper much more quickly. I realize the industrial look might not be for everyone, but I think there is a concrete countertop for just about anyone. What do you think? Are you ready to DIY some counter tops? Let's be friends! Follow along, so you never miss a post *This post contains affiliate links and sponsored product. All opinions are 100% mine and have not been influenced. If you dig the Mid-Century/Industrial look, check out my: + Mid-Century Industrial Storage + World Market "Aiden" Coffee Table knock off + Zinc Top Coffee Table Linking at: Remodelaholic
Do you love those high-end store's furniture lines but not the price? Here are some of the best furniture builds from my fav bloggers with full tutorials!
How to build barn door console or buffet - free plans by ANA-WHITE.com
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Free building plans and tutorial for building a gorgeous console cabinet with an open shelf on the bottom! Great DIY piece for any room in the house!
Build the perfect pergola! Learn to DIY this beautiful circular pergola with a central firepit, swings, and Adirondack chairs - Little White House Blog on @Remodelaholic
Our $200 Fireplace Makeover (Marble Tile & A New Mantel) | Young House Love
My good friend Kristina has been busy planning her oldest daughter, Annikka's wedding. We started talking about decorations and that led to me acquiring this dresser. The plan was to fancy her up a bit, use it for decoration for the reception and then give it to Annikka for her new apartment. This is my version of a wedding gift. Notice the cobwebs underneath? Yeah, she'd been stored on a back patio for quite a while. So, cutting to the chase. I primed, brushed 2 coats of homemade chalk paint, added some off-white accents and here she is. Since she had some pretty significant wear, I decided we should rock the shabby look, made possible with some 100 grit sandpaper and a whole lot of elbow grease. When it came time to seal it, I chose not to go with my typical PAS. I knew I wanted some sort of glaze or dark wax to bring out the details and since I used chalk paint, if I used polyacrylic that would mean brushing on at least one coat to seal the porous paint, glazing, and then brushing on 2-3 more coats. That didn't sound too fun. I decided to bring out the detail with some dark antiquing wax. Since I made my own chalk paint, why not make my own dark wax too? I started with some Johnson Paste Wax. Why? Because I had it on hand. Why did I have it on hand? Because it's half the price of most soft waxes and I'm cheap. I've used both Annie Sloan and CeCe Caldwell wax before. I like them both (CeCe Caldwell's better), but I've had really good results with SC Johnson's paste wax too. To get ready to tint the wax, make sure the wax is very soft, almost melted consistancy. To do this, you could set the tub in a bowl of hot water, not reaching the top of the tub and let it sit for a few minutes and then stir well. Or, you could do what I did and leave the tub of wax sitting on a shelf in the garage and live in a place that reaches 115 degrees almost daily. That technique worked great! All I had to do was scoop some out into a plastic container. Because wax is oil-based, you will need to tint it with an oil-based product. I started by pouring a bit of Kona wood stain into the wax and stirring well. It looked perfect! But when I tried some on a sample board, it was a bit weak. It didn't really leave any color after it was buffed off. So, to step it up a notch, I added around a teaspoon of Raw Umber universal tint. I know I've mentioned this product a million times before, but it's really that useful! You can use it to tint virtually anything (water-based, oil-based, shellac, etc)! I talked about using universal tint to mix custom glaze in this post. Also, a bottle only costs around $10 at Home Depot and lasts forever. I bought this bottle over a year ago, use it several times a month, and it's more than half-full still! After adding the tint, I stirred the wax very well, making sure to blend any lumps. It was pretty runny. Too thin to try to wax something with. I simply covered the container, and popped it into my fridge for about half an hour. Once it set up, it was perfect! Nice, smooth, dark wax with just the right amount of pigment. Back to the dresser/wedding gift. Using a clean rag, I rubbed on one coat of dark wax, let dry and buffed. After about 3 hrs, I applied an additional coat of clear wax, for added protection. The dark wax toned down the white a bit, without making it look dirty. And I love the way it emphasized the details in the wood. Once more, let's see the before And after. I'm happy with the way my blue and white painted dresser came out and I'll definitely make my own DIY dark wax again! Let's be friends! Follow along, so you never miss a post Linking at: Remodelaholic
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How to build a DIY outdoor chair for just $30 in lumber! This DIY patio chair matches our DIY outdoor couch to complete your DIY outdoor furniture set!
Here's how to build a outdoor DIY fire pit step by step in your backyard. This is a pretty easy project and reasonably inexpensive!
My bathroom makeover may possibly be the slowest in history. It started last year when I removed the hideous, cheap light bar above the vanity and replaced it with 2 beautiful light fixtures. The next step was to add moulding to the wall-mounted mirror, and I shared some tricks to make that process easier. And that's where things stayed... for months and months. Recently, I finally found the motivation and decided it was time to tackle updating the vanity. If you have lived in a house built in the last 25 years, the odds are pretty good you have lived with cabinets like these. Typical, builder-grade oak, finished in a gold/honey color. I had a decision to make. Was I going to paint or stain them? I have decided although its better than golden stain, I don't really care for the look of painted oak. You can still see the heavy grain, even after a couple coats. Also, I have yet to sell my husband on painted cabinets. So stain it is! There was absolutely no way I was going to attempt to strip all the existing stain and finish off this vanity, plus I was looking to minimize some of the oak grain. I had the idea that I could use a tinted topcoat, like Minwax's Polyshades to darken the wood (same technique I used on my old kitchen table). Unfortunately, Polyshades is a bit of a drippy mess and can get thick and globby with multiple coats. I started researching and discovered that a lot of people have had great success darkening finished wood with gel stain. The first tutorial I read was this one. Just about every tutorial I read claimed you must use General Finish gel stain, and every single one of them used the color Java. I decided to be a rebel and try something else, and guess what? It worked! I used about half a quart of Varathane gel stain (by Rustoleum) in the color Dark Walnut . If you've decided to darken your cabinets, lets go over the steps I suggest you follow. First, remove the drawer faces and cabinet doors. I have seen people stain them in place, but don't do it. It takes like 5 minutes to unscrew the old doors. Lets do it the right way people. Next, give everything a light sand-down, especially if your cabinets are on the newer side. It shouldn't take very long. You arn't looking to remove the finish, just give it some "tooth". I used 150 grit. Make sure to use a damp rag or tack cloth to wipe them clean after. Once your wood is prepped, time to start staining. One mistake I see people do is to not stir their stain. Gel stain is super thick! Like pudding. Although the pigment in gel stain doesn't separate as quickly as traditional stain, it is still a good idea to stir it well before use. As for application, I'll admit, I totally stole this idea. Once again, being a rebel, I tried applying the stain with a high quality brush but still had terrible brush strokes. I finally caved and went with the crowd and used a thick sock over a gloved hand. It really worked great to get a smooth, even application. For an authentic, stained wood look, make sure to wipe with the grain of the wood and be mindful of intersections. Keep the coats even but thin. Warning, the first coat will look like crap. At this point you will totally be second guessing yourself and possibly cursing my name. It will get better, I promise. VERY IMPORTANT! Let each coat dry for at least 12 hours. Seriously. I don't care if the can says you "can re-coat in 2 hours". Don't do it. Yes, I have 2 steps labeled #4 Each coat gets better and better. It took me 3 coats till the color looked even and natural. If you want professional results, you are going to want to spray your sealant (I'll explain more in a minute). Take the doors to the (open) garage to spray, but the vanity will have to get sprayed in place. Yes, you can spray inside your house. Actually, that's how the pro's do it. You can pick up plastic drop cloths at Home Depot for dirt cheap. Cover anything you don't want sprayed and make sure to have as much ventilation as possible! If you read other tutorials, they will all tell you to use a water-based, wipe on top coat. Here's my thoughts: This is a bathroom. These cabinets will be frequently exposed to water. Water-based sealants aren't durable to long term water exposure. Once I decided to refinish my cabinets, I decided to make them look and feel as professional as possible. I started watching dozens of YouTube videos and reading on cabinet maker forums. One thing was universal. Professionals use lacquer to seal cabinets for a variety of reasons. #1- Its dries fast! You can re-coat, without sanding, in 30 minutes. #2- It dries hard as a rock, unlike poly products which are essentially flexible plastic. And #3- It is VERY durable. Once fulled cured, a lacquered surface should withstand years of heavy use. I know, DIYers are usually scared of lacquer. The good news is, I found a clear lacquer in a spray can! I have a couple of paint guns, but I try to avoid running anything but water-based products through them, since I hate the clean up. Home Depot carries a product by Deft (owned by Minwax) that is perfect! It goes on super even, and gives professional looking results. I sprayed 3 coats on the vanity as well as both sides of the doors and ended up using 6 cans. Here is a link to buy it online After allowing the lacquer to dry over-night, one more step I highly recommend is using felt or rubber pads on the drawer and cabinet faces. These little guys are easy to find, cheap, and help your cabinets function much more smoothly. The small space they provide between the doors and frames keep the fresh stain and lacquer from sticking to itself. They are also a must for painted cabinets! Here's a link to buy them online If you are attaching new hardware, make your life easier and build a jig from some scrap wood. It takes only a couple minutes to put together and ensures each hole is drilled in the exact same spot on every door. If you don't feel like putting a jig together, you can buy a plastic guide here. The last steps are to attach the hardware and drawer faces, and hang the doors. Let's take one more look at the "before". And here is the after! A few of the photos make it look darker than it really is. This shot shows the true color the best. A dark, rich brown. I am in LOVE with the hardware, generously donated by D. Lawless Hardware! If you are looking for cabinet hardware, you have got to check them out. I honestly would order from them even if we didn't have a relationship. Honestly, the best prices and best customer service! The pulls are Traditional Minaret in chrome And the knobs are the 1 1/4" Polished Chrome Knobs. I know I'm bragging, but they really do look professionally refinished in person. Its not done yet though. I've got something special to put on top of it curing in my garage as we speak. I'll share it as soon as it's done! What do you think? Big improvement huh? Let's be friends! Follow along, so you never miss a post *This post contains affiliate links Linking at: Savvy Southern Style
Free furniture building plans from four of my favorite bloggers
Comprehensive list of free building plan sources.
Free plans and how-to video to build this DIY Sliding Barn Door Nightstand and the $20 DIY Barn Door Hardware! Simple build at www.shanty-2-chic.com
This simple Adirondack side table can also be used as a stool. It's perfect for any outdoor space. Our free plans include step by step diagrams and shopping lists and cut list. We also have Adirondack Chair plans and lots more outdoor furniture plans. Make sure you read our outdoor furniture finishing secrets here. Photo submitted by HurricaneKris